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The puppy soon accepts all people in the home as his to play with or love, but others generally come second to the “Master,” who usually is the person who feeds and cares for the puppy Others should give him his food at times, though, so that the “Master,” if necessary, can be absent at feeding time The hour for the main meal should be as regular as possible. There is always a chance that the puppy might have to be boarded out one day, or stay at the vet’s. It will be less traumatic for the Porn and easier for everyone if there is flexibility in the puppy’s regimen. At this time of his life his main needs are: love, food, water, fence, crate, blankets, leash, toys, and REGULATIONS. The fence and the crate can be found at most pet supply stores. Select a crate that can double as a sleeping box or a carrier for trips away from home.
Most dogs enjoy riding in the car. The carrying crate will take the place of a seat belt in the case of an accident, so I strongly recommend its use. The dog will enjoy the trip just as much as long as he does not know otherwise.
Training your Pomeranian should begin as early as six weeks of age, but only in a general way. Be firm yet gentle. Rewards and praise will accomplish almost anything, but they should follow quickly, so that the dog associates them with his action. The loud “No” likewise is important, and should follow immediately after the puppy’s mistake. A light slap on the nose, together with the “No” should be reserved for a growl or bite only, and must be done fast, the first time and a second time if needed. Bring the puppy’s face up close and impress your disapproval in words also. Poms seem to understand when you are talking to them. Small leashes are sometimes hard to find, but the dog show concessionaires generally have them on hand. Do not use a harness or flat collar, for both wear off the lovely ruff that is a distinctive feature of the Porn. It is never too early to get your puppy accustomed to a leash. The kind I use are made of Nylon fishing cord and can scarcely be felt by the puppy unless the leash is tightened to make him follow. Do not pull on the leash at all the first few sessions. With a choice piece of meat in your right hand and the puppy at your left side, encourage the puppy to try to get the meat. Give him a tiny bite of it as you walk and stop. After a session or so, he will move readily. Put the meat behind you if he tries to jump for it. Give him pieces of meat quickly but only while he is in a show pose. Tighten the leash gradually until you are in command. He is thus trained for show walking and with pleasure.
Table stacking can be taught now, too. If the puppy learns to stand on a table for fun and food when little, he will stand for examination readily when he is older. But never let him fall or you will have failed. And watch yourself. Never give an order that you are not in a position to enforce. The first time the puppy doesn’t come when you say “Come,” go to him and pull him back to the spot from where you gave the order. Repeat this action as often as needed, for it well might save his life one day. When the puppy obeys, praise him, love him, and tell him how good he is. One of the easiest ways I have found to stop barking is to use a folded newspaper to swat the side of the puppy’s crate or fence immediately after each bark. For example: bark—swat; bark—swat; bark—swat; quiet—no swat; bark—swat; bark—swat; etc. For reinforcement, say “No” with each swat. The word “No” is one he needs to know anyway. I also use “Stop it” for misbehavior. Please do not say these words sweetly. Use a forceful voice. Pomeranians are more difficult to train if older, but with these same procedures most of them will learn in due time. Much more may be learned, and tricks of all kinds. With patience, you will be surprised. When a Porn is a pet in your home and with you a lot, he seems to understand everything you say. A Pom is truly a reflection of his master. Puppies, like human babies, are not particular about what they eat. Anything goes in the mouth. Anything they can get their teeth in will be chewed. Watch the floor for anything dropped, such as pins, clips, small toys, pills, or foods. Many house plants have leaves toxic to dogs or people, so be sure to pick them up immediately. Poms are hardy dogs, though, so most of them grow up in spite of the extra hazards of being so small.
Mineral oil often will help send a foreign object through the digestive tract. (Oil is disastrous if it seeps into the lungs, so do not use an eyedropper.) Put it in a teaspoon with something tasty such as meat. Most dogs will then lap it up with gusto. Milk of Magnesia is one of the few laxatives safe for a puppy that is constipated. The raw white of an egg often coats offending items in the digestive tract—even some poisons. It is a first-aid help.
Colic may be cured with Entromycin, a carob flavored powder which contains a mild antibiotic. (This is relished by even a sick puppy.) When mixed to a paste with a drop or so of water, it can be smeared on the nose or even put on the tongue if the puppy doesn’t seem to wish to lap it up. A quarter of a teaspoon of the powder is the right amount for a four pound Porn. I have given it to nursing-age Puppies on occasions (their dams too), with no adverse after effects. The powder can be secured only by having a prescription from your vet. You always should have on call a favorite, competent veterinarian, and always follow his advice for emergencies. It could make a vast difference.
Accidents can happen in spite of your care. A broken leg is frequently a result of an interrupted jump or a fall from the arms of a child (or an adult). I recommend that in carrying a Pom, or even holding one, that you keep a handful of the dog’s coat firmly gripped in one hand as a safety restraint. Patellar luxation is a hazard in Pomeranians, probably because the bones are so fine. This condition (in which the tendon of a rear leg slips to one side of the groove at the knee) will evidence itself by the dog’s limping or carrying the leg without stepping on the foot. The joint must be readjusted immediately or the Pom could be disabled permanently. Have your vet show you how to stretch the back leg while holding your fingers on either side of the joint until the tendon falls back in place. Then keep the dog extra quiet for a day or so to give the joint some chance to heal. Overweight can cause the problem, or stepping unexpectedly in an indentation in the ground, or a sudden jolt while playing, or an injury. Sometimes the groove in the knee joint is so shallow that the tendon can easily slip out. This is a hereditary condition that conscientious breeders are trying to eliminate.
Hypoglycemia may occur in our tiny Poms during the first year of life or later. It is generally evidenced by languor or coma. First aid for this condition is to feed with an eyedropper, one drop at a time, a solution of karo syrup and water, mixed with fifty percent of each. Be sure the dog is conscious enough to swallow. Smelling salts might also help, but rely on your trusty vet for continued treatment and to find the cause.
Every Pomeranian should be given a morning and evening inspection, as a matter of habit. This is as necessary for a single pet as it is for many Poms in a kennel, and as necessary for an adult dog as for a puppy. Any trouble brewing is half licked if spotted right at the start. The inspection should include a check of the sleeping quarters, as well as a detailed check of the dog. If there is any squinting, watering, redness, or mattering of the eyes, the dog should be isolated immediately for observation. The temperature should be checked and any indicated treatment given. If an ear is held low, or being shaken or scratched, it could indicate the onset of an infestation of ear mites, mange mites, ticks, or fleas. The area around the anus should be inspected to be sure it is clean. Sometimes feces become stuck there, and if the dog sits down in it, it can cause serious irritation. If the feces becomes so hard that the opening is obstructed, the bowel can rupture and the puppy die. This is a common hazard at the time the puppies are weaned, too, for the dam often stops cleaning her babes when they start to eat solid food. The coat is getting long at weaning time and is easily matted. It should be clipped around the anus to give clearance for the feces. The show Porn exhibits such a trim, and it should be done more severely on the stay-at-home Instructions for trimming the area are included in the grooming chapter.
Droopiness or limpness often calls for a trip to the veterinarian, especially if the temperature is over 102.4 degrees. A dropper full of glucose (half karo syrup and half water mixed) could be a first aid lifesaver.
Coughing can have many causes. The dog may cough merely to clear his throat, or the cough may develop into “kennel cough,” which often persists for weeks. It is likened to whooping cough in humans. There is a vaccine for kennel cough which nowadays is added to the DHL vaccine and advocated for all dogs on a yearly basis. Parvo vaccine, either killed or modified live virus type, and corona vaccine are added now also.
A check of bedding and sleeping quarters will show any vomiting, shedding to the point of the need to strip out the coat, or parasite invasion. Tapeworms often are seen first on the bedding or stuck around the anus and hair in that immediate area. The life cycle of the tapeworm involves spending a larva stage in the flea or other insect, so swallowing one flea could result in a tapeworm infestation. The tapeworm is capable of moving when it first erupts from the anus and is cream colored, but when dry it looks very much like a grain of brown rice, or a bit of crumbled shredded wheat. Your vet has a new medicine which seems to check the problem in one treatment, so consult him at once. Scratching indicates shedding, parasites, dermatitis,or even allergy. Roughness on the ear tips calls for baby oil or powder. (We hope it isn’t the start of mange.)
Vomiting, unless it is persistent or contains foreign matter, is not a cause for much worry, for a dog can vomit at will, and vomiting is usual if he overeats. A dam will regurgitate when she feels it is time for the puppies to start solid food. However, a little common sense will tell you if there is a serious problem. I believe each dog should have his daily main meal in an individual dish. This provides an excellent means of checking the dog’s health, because a sick dog will refuse to eat. Also, you will learn how much he needs to eat to stay in optimum condition. Self feeding (keeping dry food available at all times) is often advisable.
Nails must be kept short from the first week on The pomeranian nail grows in a curve It will catch on the dam’s hair or scratch her tummy so the pointed end should be clipped Any sharp scissors will do the first few months, for the nails are quite tender. After that I use “people-kind” toenail clippers, which you can buy at any cosmetic counter. Care must be taken that the nails are not cut too short since blood vessels could be severed You can expect the puppy coat to fall out any time after the puppy is three months old Sometimes it goes quickly, causing the puppy to look like a Chihuahua for awhile Breeders call this the “monkey stage” or “being a teenager.” A rare puppy will hold his puppy coat until his adult coat is almost in. (This may be the result of a genetic factor for future breeders to consider.) A daily brushing and combing is needed when the puppy coat is shedding. Brush out all of the dead coat and feed an extra supplement to help nourish the new coat which will come in soon. If the skin seems dry, olive oil or baby oil may be worked in. Sometime after five months the Pomeranian will start to teethe. To me, this is one of the few afflictions of our breed. Many Poms, if given enough bones and hard biscuits to chew, will shed puppy teeth with only minor discomfort and sore gums. Many more will tend to retain them while their adult teeth erupt beside, in back of, or in front of baby teeth. Massaging, pushing, or wedging as much as the dog will allow is helpful, but if baby teeth are not out by the age of nine months, it is time to consult your vet, or to call the breeder about it. A female Pomeranian will come in season anytime after six months of age, although the average is about nine. The first indication is a swelling of the vulva and area around it. The second stage is the showing of blood or a bloody discharge from the vulva, which may be copious or scarcely noticeable. The bitch will be playful, urinate frequently, flirt and tease any dog, but will not be willing to stand for a male to breed her until she is ready, generally after nine days. A bitch should be kept under absolute control for the full three weeks of her season. She should not be permitted to urinate any place where males can smell the distinctive odor that permeates the urine at this time. It is too hard on the nervous system of the male dog and is a nuisance to the bitch’s owner.
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