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Common illness

 

 

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Luxating Patellas

Symptoms of Illness

Fever

Fits

Coughing

Vomiting

Injuries

Burns

Electric shock

Fractures

Poisoning

Severe bleeding

Shock

Bacterial and Viral diseases

Distemper

Infectious Hepatitis

Parovirus

Parasites

Leptospirosis

Rabies

Parasites

Worms

Ticks

Fleas

Ear mites

Skin problems

Caring for injured dog

 

 

 

 

Luxating patellas (knees that slip out of place) are the most common problem in the Pomeranian breed.  The knees are graded according to the OFA (Orthopedic Foundation for Animals).  Normal knees are, of course the most desirable, but Grades One and Two are more common and not unusual in toy breeds.  Grades Three and Four may require surgery, sometimes early on in the dog’s life.  Be sure to check the knees of any prospective puppy.  One with higher grades at a young age will probably be a candidate for surgery. Both of my Poms have had this problem and It could be quite costly to correct. One of the Poms has a heart problem so surgery is out of the question.

In dealing with health problems, simple measures of care are always preferable to cures, which may be complicated and costly. Many of the problems which affect dogs can be avoided quite easily by instituting dog keeping practices in connection with feeding and housing.

Proper nutrition is essential in maintaining the dog’s resistance to infectious diseases, in reducing susceptibility to organic diseases, and, of course, in preventing dietary deficiency diseases. Cleanliness is essential in preventing the growth of disease producing bacteria and other micro-organisms. All equipment especially water and food dishes, must immaculately clean. Cleanliness also is essential in controlling external parasites, which thrive in un­sanitary surroundings.

 

Symptoms of Illness

Symptoms of illness may be so obvious there is no question  that the dog is ill, or so subtle that the owner is not sure whether there is a change from normal or not.

Loss of appetite, malaise (general lack of interest in is going on), and vomiting may be ignored if they occur and persist only for a day. However, in  with other evidence of illness, such symptoms may be significant and the dog should be watched closely.

Abnormal bowel movements, especially diarrhea or bloody stools, are causes for immediate concern. Urinary abnormalities may indicate infections, and bloody urine is always an indication of a serious condition.  When a dog that has long been housebroken suddenly becomes incontinent, a veterinarian should be consulted, for he may be able to suggest treatment or medication that will be helpful.

 

Fever is a positive indication of illness and consistent deviation from the normal temperature range of 100 to 102 degrees is cause for concern. Have the dog in a standing position when taking his temperature. Coat the bulb of a rectal thermometer with K-Y or petroleum jelly, raise the dog’s tail, insert the thermometer to approximately half its length, and hold it in position for two minutes. Clean the thermometer with rubbing alcohol after each use and be sure to shake it down.

 

Fits, often considered a symptom of worms, may result from a variety of causes, including vitamin deficiencies, or playing to the point of exhaustion. A veterinarian should be consulted when a fit occurs, for it may be a symptom of serious illness.

 

Persistent coughing is often considered a symptom of worms, but may also indicate heart trouble especially in older dogs. Coughing could signal the dreaded kennel cough, and owners should always have Poms inoculated for this serious malady.

Dull coat—dull and lackluster—indicates generally poor health and possible worm infestation. Dull eyes may result from similar conditions. Certain forms of blindness may also cause the eyes to lose the sparkle of vibrant good health.

 

Vomiting is another symptom often attributed to worm infestation. Dogs suffering from indigestion  sometimes eat grass, apparently to induce vomiting and relieve discomfort.

Accidents and Injuries

 

Injuries of a serious nature-deep cuts, broken bones, severe burns, etc. always require veterinary care. However, the dog may need first aid before being moved to a veterinary hospital. A dog injured in any way should be approached cautiously, for reactions of a dog in pain are unpredictable and he may bite even a beloved master. A muzzle should always be applied before any attempt is made to move the dog or treat him in any way. The muzzle can be improvised from a strip of cloth, bandage, or even heavy cord, looped firmly around the dog’s jaws and tied under the lower jaw. The ends should then be extended back of the neck and tied again so the loop around the jaws will stay in place. A stretcher can be improvised from a rug or board, and preferably two people should be available to transport it. A small dog can be carried by one person simply by grasping the loose skin at the nape of the neck with one hand and placing the other hand under the dog’s hips.

 

Burns from chemicals should first be treated by flushing the coat with plain water, taking care to protect the dog’s eyes and ears. A baking soda solution can then be applied to neutralize the chemical further. If the burned area is small, a bland ointment should be applied. If the burned area is large, more extensive treat­ment will be required, as well as veterinary care. Burns from hot liquid or hot metals should be treated by applying a bland ointment, provided the burned area is small. Burns over large areas should be treated by a veterinarian.

 

Electric shock usually results because an owner negligently leaves an electric cord exposed where the dog can chew on it. If possible, disconnect the cord before touching the dog. Otherwise, yank the cord from the dog’s mouth so you will not receive a shock when you try to help him. If the dog is unconscious, artificial respiration and stimulants will be required, so a vet should be consulted at once.

 

Fractures require immediate professional attention. A broken bone should be immobilized while the dog is transported to the veterinarian but no attempt should be made to splint it.

 

Poisoning is more often accidental than deliberate, but whichever the case, symptoms and treatment are the same. If the poisoning is not discovered immediately, the dog may be found unconscious. His mouth will be slimy, he will tremble, have difficulty breathing, and possibly go into convulsions. Veterinary treatment must be secured immediately. If you find the dog eating something When the contents of the stomach have been emptied, force the dog to swallow raw egg white, which will slow absorption of the poison. Then call the veterinarian. Provide him with information as to the type of poison, and follow his advice as to further treatment. Some chemicals are toxic even though not swallowed, so before using a product, make sure it can be used safely around pets. you know to be poisonous, induce vomiting immediately by repeatedly forcing the dog to swallow a mixture of equal parts of hydrogen peroxide and water. Delay of even a few minutes may result in death.

 

Severe bleeding from a leg can be controlled by applying a tourniquet between the wound and the body, but the tourniquet must be loosened at ten-minute intervals. Severe bleeding from head or body can be controlled by placing a cloth or gauze pad over the wound, then applying firm pressure with the hand.

To treat minor cuts, first trim the hair from around the wound, then wash the area with warm soapy water and apply a mild antiseptic. (Ask your veterinarian to recommend one.)

 

Shock is usually the aftermath of severe injury and re­quires immediate veterinary attention. The dog appears dazed, lips and tongue are pale, and breathing is shallow. The dog should be wrapped in blankets and kept warm, and if possible, kept lying down with his head lower than his body.

 

Bacterial and Viral Diseases

Corona virus is an intestinal disease with symptoms similar to those caused by the more familiar parvovirus. Like parvovirus, corona virus can be transmitted by items such as clothing and brushes, not only by contact. The fatality rate is less than for parvovirus but still at a dangerous level. A preventive vaccine is available.

 

Distemper takes many and varied forms, so it is sometimes difficult for even experienced veterinarians to diagnose. It is the number one killer of dogs, and although it is not unknown in older dogs, its victims are usually puppies. While some dogs do recover, permanent damage to the brain or nervous system is often sustained. Symptoms may include lethargy, diarrhea  vomiting, reduced appetite, cough, nasal discharge, inflammation of the eyes, and a rise in temperature if  distemper is suspected, a veterinarian must be consulted at once, for early treatment is essential. Effective preventive measures lie in inoculation. Shots for temporary immunity should be given all puppies within a  few weeks after whelping, and the permanent inoculations should be given as soon thereafter as possible.

 

Infectious hepatitis in dogs affects the liver, as the human form, but apparently is not transmitted to man. Symptoms are similar to those of distemper, the disease rapidly reaches the acute state.  Hepatitis is often fatal, prompt veterinary treatment is essential. Effective vaccines are available and should be provided for all Puppies. A combination distemper hepatitis vaccine is sometimes used.

 

Leptospirosis is caused by a micro-organism  transmitted by contact with rats, or by ingestion of food Contaminated by rats. The disease can be transmitted to man, so anyone caring for an afflicted dog must I steps to avoid infection. Symptoms include vomiting, of appetite, diarrhea, fever, depression and redness of eyes and gums, and sometimes jaundice. Since permanent kidney damage may result, veterinary treatment should be secured immediately.

 

Parvovirus is a highly contagious and often fatal intestinal disease characterized by severe vomiting a diarrhea (often bloody), a high temperature, and rapid dehydration. Although usually preceded by lethargy and loss of appetite, the onset is sudden, and veterinary treatment must be sought at the first sign of symptoms A preventive vaccine affords protection but must, course, be given before symptoms appear.

 

Rabies is a disease that is always fatal and it transmissible to man. It is caused by a virus that attacks the nervous system and is present in the saliva of an infected animal. When an infected animal bites another, the virus is transmitted to the new victim. It may also enter the body through cuts and scratches that come in contact with saliva containing the virus. All warm blooded animals are subject to rabies, an it may be transmitted by foxes, skunks, squirrel~ horses, and cattle as well as dogs. Anyone bitten by dog (or other animal) should see his physician immediately, and health and law enforcement official should be notified. Also, if your dog is bitten by another animal, consult your veterinarian immediately. In most areas, rabies shots are required by law. Ever if not required, all dogs should be given anti-rabies vaccine, for it is an effective preventive measure.

 

Internal Parasites, with the exception of the tapeworm, may be transmitted from a mother dog to the puppies. Infestation may also result from contact with infested bedding or through access to a yard where an infested dog relieves himself. The types that may infest dogs are roundworms, whipworms, tapeworms, hookworms, and heartworms. All cause similar symptoms: a generally unthrifty appearance, stary coat, dull eyes, weakness and emaciation despite a ravenous appetite, coughing, vomiting, diarrhea, and sometimes bloody stools. Not all symptoms are present in every case, of course. A heavy infestation with any type of worm is a serious matter and treatment must be started early and continued until the dog is free of the parasite, or the dog’s health will suffer seriously. Death may even result. Promiscuous dosing for worms is dangerous and different types of worms require different treatment. So if you suspect your dog has worms, ask your veterinarian to make a microscopic examination of the feces, and if necessary, to prescribe appropriate treatment.

 

Heartworm, once thought to be a problem confined to the southern part of the United States, today represent a life-threatening danger to dogs in all parts of the country. Heartworm larvae are transmitted from dog to dog through the bite of the mosquito. Once they have entered the bloodstream, heartworms mature in the heart, where they interfere with heart action, causing chronic coughing and labored breathing. The tiny heartworm larvae (called microfilariac) can be detected only through microscopic examination of the dog’s blood. Effective preventive medication is available but can be given only if the microscopic examination shows that no microfilaria are present. While medication is also available for treating infested dogs, the degree of success to be expected depends upon the amount of damage already sustained. Because of the radical nature of the treatment required once infestation occurs, prevention is by far the preferred approach. A veterinarian should be consulted and his advice followed implicitly.

 

Hookworms are found in puppies as well as adult dogs. When excreted in the feces, the mature worm looks like a thread and is about three-quarters of an inch in length. Eradication is a serious problem in areas where the soil is infested with the worms, for the dog may then become re-infested after treatment. Consequently, medication usually must be repeated at intervals, and the premises including the grounds where the dog exercises must be treated and must be kept well drained.

 

Roundworms are the most common of all the worms that may infest the dog, for most puppies are born with them or become infested with them shortly after birth. Roundworms vary in length from two to eight inches and can be detected readily through microscopic examination of the feces. At maturity, upon excretion, the roundworm will spiral into a circle, but after it dies it resembles a cut rubber band. If you suspect that a puppy may have roundworms, check his gums and tongue. If the puppy is heavily infested, the worms will cause anemia and the gums and the tongue will be a very pale pink color. If the puppy is anemic, the veterinarian probably will prescribe a tonic in addition to the proper worm medicine.

 

Tapeworms require an intermediate host, usually the flea or the louse, but they sometimes are found in raw fish, so a dog can become infested by swallowing a flea or a louse, or by eating infested food. A complete tapeworm can be two to three feet long. The head and neck of the tapeworm are small and threadlike, while the body is made up of segments like links of a sausage, which are about half an inch long and flat. Segments of the body separate from the worm and will be found in the feces or will hang from the coat around the anus and when dry will resemble dark grains of rice. The head of the tapeworm is imbedded in the lining of the intestine where the worm feeds on the blood of the dog. The difficulty in eradicating the tapeworm lies in the fact that most medicines have a laxative action which is too severe and which pulls the body from the head so the body is eliminated with the feces, but the implanted head remains to start growing a new body An effective medication is a tablet which does not dissolve until it reaches the intestine, where it anesthetizes the worm to loosen the head before expulsion.

 

Whipworms are more common in the eastern states than in states along the West Coast, but whipworms may infest dogs in any section of the United States Whipworms vary in length from two to four inches and are tapered in shape so they resemble a buggy whip which accounts for the name. At maturity, the whipworm migrates into the caecum, where it is difficult to reach with medication. A fecal examination will show whether whipworms are present, so after treatment, it is best to have several examinations made in order to be sure the dog is free of them.

 

Tick, lice, hookworm, and mange mite infestations can be cured, but it is most important to prevent reinfestation, so let us consider the life cycle of the flea. Its control should automatically eliminate the majority of other parasites. Those little elusive insects that can jump so far and keep ahead of your comb, and the longer bodied ones that crawl so fast and won’t squash with just finger pressure, are fleas. The little ones are males or young fleas and the larger ones the egg laying females. The adult female flea can lay up to twenty eggs a day if the weather is right. The eggs do not stay on the dog but fall into cracks, dirt, under weeds, in bedding, carpets, etc., and there remain dormant until conditions are just right. Humidity and warmth will cause the eggs to hatch in a hurry. Out of each egg comes a larva. It feeds on almost any substance and grows quickly. Then it pupates. From the cocoon emerges the young flea which can and will jump prodigious distances to get on a warm blooded animal. Aside from the damage done by its blood eating habits, the flea carries the egg of the tapeworm, which goes through its larval stage in the flea. Your dog has merely to swallow a flea carrying an embryo tapeworm, and it then matures in the intestines of the dog. Ticks are much larger than Fleas and as they engorge on blood they can get as large as a marble if left alone. Pulling a tick off your dog is not the best way to extract them because you may leave part of it's mouth parts in your dog which may cause an infection. The best way to extract them them is to place a drop of alcohol at the point of entry which will loosen the tick's grip on your dog. Once the tick loosens it's grip you can grasp it with a pair of tweezers and pull it out very slowly.  Try to extract it the tick by it's mouth when you do the extraction. Be sure to put some alcohol on the infected area once the extraction is complete. Ticks are known to carry Lyme disease in humans and could be life threatening. If a tick bites you, save the tick if possible and see a medical professional immediately.

 

Fleas carry more diseases from one dog to another than are transmitted in any other way. They do it by injecting their contaminated saliva directly into the blood stream of the dog. If a dog is not available, then the fleas may use a human instead. This is an ever present danger unless you are prepared to go to any extreme to prevent it. If everyone that owned a dog or cat were equally concerned, the problem could be eliminated easily.

The flea is not satisfied to stay a lifetime with the same host, so it jumps to another animal at will, especially a younger dog or one that has an enticing smell. I have had a puppy show up with a flea a day or so after a client walked into the room with a dog which I later noted had some fleas.   These pests can easily come into your house in clothing of a person who has left his flea-riddled dog in his car, so be on the alert. The stick tight fleas cling to the skin, often in clusters, and generally around the rim of the ears. They do not jump. The female burrows under the skin and lays her eggs in the ulcers produced. After the eggs hatch the larva fall to the ground where they pupate. In a few weeks the adult emerges and is ready to crawl onto any dog or cat. Use BFI powder liberally on the ears and wherever stick tight fleas are found. Fleas are almost impossible to eradicate if they get a good start in your home, kennel, yard, or car. The quickest solution is, of course, to call a professional exterminator. It will take several treatments two weeks apart, followed by additional treatments at least once a month until winter arrives. The exterminator will need to spray both indoors and outdoors, including any place to which dogs or cats have access. Fleas quickly build up an immunity to any insecticide used, so be sure that the exterminator changes the formula from time to time. During this time you must do your complete dog laundry and kennel cleaning so that there are no eggs ready to hatch out after the treatments. It also would be wise to wash down surfaces with a flea dip. If there is a grooming parlor in your locality, it would be easier for you to leave your dog there to receive his part of the defleaing while you have the premises treated. It is best for any spray to be thoroughly dry before bringing your Pom back. You do not want your dog to ingest any of it. Some sprays are quite toxic. Ask your exterminator. He should be an expert. It is almost impossible to keep cats from bringing fleas into your yard from other areas in the neighborhood. You might try to make your premises unattractive to cats by using a product they abhor along the boundaries of your property. Flea collars are quite dangerous, most experts agree that is, all experts except the ones who are selling you the collars. The skin under the collar may become quite sore if it becomes saturated with harmful chemicals. If the animal breathes the fumes day and night, the fumes can be harmful to the lungs, liver, and other internal organs. What about the build up? The flea dip may be almost as bad but lasts only a couple of days. Then what to do? New products are coming on the market all the time, so eventually there will be an answer. I will list a few old and new proposals for your consideration. Pyrethrum and Rotenone are about the safest of the insecticides, although the first is said merely to stun the insect.


 

 

 


 

Brewers yeast as a part of the dog’s diet is said to make the animal repulsive to the flea, but  There are two new citrus-oil-based products that are said to be nontoxic and quite effective. They are D-limonene and a shampoo called Lightning. This latter product comes also as a spray and is said to be mild enough for daily use. Powdered borax sprinkled liberally in house and yard is said to eliminate fleas. It is then to be vacuumed up in the house along with the dead pests. Rock salt is claimed to kill flea eggs, but no doubt your greenery will go with them. In Southern California, even in the winter, freezing weather may not arrive at all to kill off the fleas, so the threat is ever present. It is worse in hot weather. It is possible to get all of the fleas off a riddled Pom by popping him into a bucket of soap suds before any of the fleas have a chance to flee. In other words, drown them. Then have rubbing alcohol, cotton balls, and tweezers handy. Brush or comb down to the skin all over as you dry the Pom. And be prepared. The flea will be somewhat groggy from the bath, so you can spot him easier. Saturate a cotton ball with alcohol, pop it on the flea, rub, and then squash the flea with the tweezers. You may put the flea into a small container of alcohol instead, if you prefer. This process works on a dry dog too, but you have to be a lot faster with the cotton ball. The next problem is to keep the fleas off. The little pests can jump at least a yard in a second. There can be a newly hatched adult waiting any place for the first warm-blooded animal to pass by. One leap and number one flea is on your dog. Even if you used a dip or spray on your pet, it is only for a day or so that the dip or spray is strong enough to kill a flea. The little pests build up an immunity to the insecticide that we use. That makes a flea explosion even more difficult to manage. If the environment is regulated and re-infestation prevented, then very little powder or spray is needed on the individual dog. You have to keep outside dogs out though, and inside dogs in, except under controlled conditions. Save the powder and spray to use on your Pom just before you take him out. Keep to the middle of the sidewalk, away from dirt, shrubs, and grass, and at least a yard away from any spot where a resting flea is likely to be waiting. Fleas like to jump from one animal to another, also. Your roaming cat or your neighbor’s cat can bring in pests with more hybrid vigor than you wish to deal with. I cannot solve that problem, but the future probably will.  If you cannot afford an exterminator or you live where one is not available, have hope. New products are coming on the market that are deemed safe for use in homes and yards and on pets. Ask your veterinarian and other users about them. Follow directions and work at it. Old time remedies such as Rotenone and Pyrethrum powders can be brushed safely on all surfaces, carpets, cushions, bedding, and dogs.

 

Ear mites can be controlled by filling the ear with baby oil. Mites breathe through the skin, so if they are covered with oil they die quickly. Swab the ear out with cotton or a Q-tip. Repeat this procedure every day till the mites are gone and the ear looks clean. The mites live deep in the ear canal and cause a brownish-black, dry type discharge. It is extremely irritating to the dog and he will carry his head to one side or shake it. If the itching is severe, he might scratch the ear raw. In that case, consult your vet. Routine cleaning of the ear may be done with peroxide or alcohol on a cotton swab, but be very careful. Medicinal ear drops and powders may be needed and usually are used after cleaning the ear. A tick may be removed by applying a swab saturated with rubbing alcohol to its body. The tick can then be removed with tweezers. The spot where the head of the tick had been inserted to feed should be cleaned or scraped and a disinfectant such as Iodine applied. Be sure that the head is not still in the wound. If it is, it must be removed. Check thoroughly and frequently throughout warm months to be sure there are no more.

Mange-Mites can also give your dog mange. Red Mange usually affects older dogs and young puppies and will cause a dull, scruffy hair loss. Itching may also accompany Red Mange. Seabies mites will burrow under the dog's skin layer. They are highly contagious and could spread to other dog's and even to you. Symptoms include hair loss and itching. See your Vet for proper diagnosis and treatment.

 

Skin Problems

There are a multitude of skin problems and eczemas caused by allergies, mange mites, hormone imbalance, fungus, and many other things. Your veterinarian should be able to help you with these, or to refer you to a skin specialist. 

Other Health Problems

Eye problems of a minor nature—redness or occasional discharge may be treated with a few drops of salt solution (one teaspoonful table salt to one pint sterile water). Cuts on the eyeball, bruises close to the eyes, or persistent discharge should be treated only by a veterinarian.

 

Heat exhaustion is a serious (and often fatal) problem caused by exposure to extreme heat. Usually it occurs when a thoughtless owner leaves a dog in a closed vehicle without proper shade and ventilation. Even on a day when outside temperatures do not seem excessively high, heat builds up rapidly to an extremely high temperature in a closed vehicle parked in direct sunlight or even in partial shade. Many dogs and young children die each year from being left in an inadequately ventilated vehicle. To prevent such a tragedy, an owner or parent should never leave a dog or child unattended in a vehicle even for a short time. During hot weather, whenever a dog is taken for a ride in an airconditioned automobile, the cool air should be reduced gradually when nearing the destination, for the sudden shock of going from cool air to extremely hot air can also result in shock and heat exhaustion. Symptoms of heat exhaustion include rapid and difficult breathing and near or complete collapse. After removing the victim from the vehicle, first aid treatment consists of sponging cool water over the body to reduce temperature as quickly as possible. Immediate medical treatment is essential in severe cases of heat exhaustion.

 

Care of the Ailing or Injured Dog

A dog that is seriously ill, requiring surgical treatment, transfusions, or intravenous feeding, must be hospitalized. One requiring less complicated treatment is better cared for at home, but it is essential that the dog be kept in a quiet environment. Preferably his bed should be in a room apart from family activity, yet close at hand, so his condition can be checked frequently. Clean bedding and adequate warmth are essential, as are a constant supply of fresh, cool water, and foods to tempt the appetite.

Special equipment is not ordinarily needed. A more complete list is included in the chapter on grooming, but the following items will be useful in caring for a sick dog, as well as in giving first aid for injuries:

petroleum jelly

rubbing alcohol

salt solution (1 teaspoonful table salt to one pint sterile water)

mineral oil

rectal thermometer hydrogen peroxide

cotton balls, gauze, and adhesive tape burn ointment

mild antiseptic ointment

tweezers

 

If special medication is prescribed, it may be administered in any one of several ways. A pill or small capsule may be concealed in a small piece of meat, which the dog usually will swallow with no problem. A large capsule may be given by holding the dog’s mouth open, inserting the capsule as far as possible down the throat, then holding the mouth closed until the dog swallows. Liquid medicine should be measured into a small bottle or test tube. Then, if the corner of the dog’s lip is pulled out while the head is tilted upward, the liquid can be poured between the lips and teeth, a small amount at a time. If he refuses to swallow, keeping the dog’s head tilted and stroking his throat usually will induce swallowing. Liquid medication also may be given by use of a hypodermic syringe without a needle. The syringe is slipped into the side of the mouth and over the rise at the back of the tongue, and the medicine is “injected” slowly down the throat. This is especially good for medicine with a bad taste, for the medicine does not touch the taste buds in the front part of the tongue. It also eliminates spills and guarantees that all the medicine goes in.

Foods offered the sick dog should be nutritious and easily digested. Meals should be smaller than usual and offered at more frequent intervals. If the dog is reluctant to eat, offer food he particularly likes. Warm it slightly to increase aroma and make it more tempting.


 

 


 

 

 


 

 


 

 

 


 

 


 

 


 

 

 

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Last modified: 01/11/08